Although small in size, Bangladesh is known as the largest delta island in the world. In the southern part of this small country, there is a combination of small and big islands. The islands bring a different appeal during the winter for people who love to travel. Camping on the island, campfires, and cooking for yourself is all responsibility to avoid the attraction. And the people of the island have a lot to learn from their way of life.
Some such islands are Monpura in Bhola district, Sandwip in Chittagong district, Nijhumdwip in Noakhali district, and Maheshkhali in Cox’s Bazar district hilly island in the country. Cox’s Bazar also has St. Martins, widely known as Coral Island. There are also Shahpari Island, Kutubdia, and Sonadia.
There are plans to visit the island every winter. Almost all the islands have been visited. Life on the island is very soothing to me cause it can be observed closely.
The island covers nine sq km in Kutubjom union of Maheshkhali Upazila of Cox’s Bazar district. The island is separated from the mainland of Cox’s Bazar by the Maheshkhali Canal Sonadia Island is only possible after crossing the Sonadia Canal in an engine-driven boat at Ghatibhanga in Maheshkhali. Every day at high tide, a trawler leaves only once from West Sonadia to Ghatibhanga. This trawler picks up the passengers in a short time and travels back. This transporting depends on the tide. You can also reach the eastern bank of Sonadia on foot from Ghatibhanga.
I started my journey at twilight from Ghatibhanga. The boat had to tread a muddy path. When the whole boat was full of passengers, the boatman started the engine. The next scene is just captivating. The water of this Sonadia canal is so crystal clear that when the red glow of the twilight sun fell on the water, it seemed that the boat was going through the polished red glass; green paragon on both sides of the canal. As the sun went down, an orange light shone. I was just staring in fascination. You have to stare at such an enchanting scene!
The evening came down when the boat ran aground on the west shore of the island. There was much mud that the shoes got stuck. The legs cannot be lifted. Someone had to push; someone had to be dragged across the dirt. That one experience! There is no electricity connection on the whole island. The locals use solar power. Come here to take a break from the traditional urban glittering life. How many of our friends were walking in the dim light. I will be camping on the island tonight. Ashraf Bhai had earlier spoken to Alamgir Bhai, a local resident of Sonadia. He took us to his house. That was a small canopy, clean coated mud house. Leaving the extra bags there, we set off for the beach with only the essentials. The sea, though, is quite far from the dunes. Due to the high tide at night, there was no way to get to the sea as it was like a canal in the middle. But the roar of the sea in a quiet environment was audible!
After crossing the bushes of Keya-Nishinda, an open place was chosen to pitch a tent. A few will pitch the tent here. We have to go to Alamgir bhai’s house and make arrangements for cooking khichuri for dinner. Tithi and Tasneem went to arrange the cooking. I also went to Tehjib. What a beautiful way to cut onions, chop peppers, spices, and cook! I fell asleep watching them lying in the cold in that mudroom. Suddenly my eyes opened. By then, the cooking was over. Everything was taken to the tent. Then no one will eat. We were sitting in a circle around the fire and chatting. In the gap, I saw Alamgir bhai quickly collected some branches and buried them in the sand in two rows. He put a net on it. Tasneem quickly spiced the chicken with her hands; arranged to have a barbecue. Khichuri and barbecue were very tasty.
Meanwhile, that was Siam’s birthday. There are only two grocery stores on the island. We bought some groceries from Maheshkhali. That’s when Tithi purchased a few slices of cake. Siam’s birthday was celebrated by arranging those cakes. There was a golden moon in the sky. Its light was shining in the water. I felt like running on the beach! But no! I was just standing by the canal and listening to the roar. I walked far along the edge of the canal alone. I was humming the melody of the song. It’s late at night. I went to bed. Outside, the fireplace of the campfire was burning.
I woke up before sunrise in the morning. The golden rays of the morning sun were falling on the white sand of the island. The island is aptly named ‘Sonadia.’ I was sitting in the cold sand. The shepherd was carrying a herd of cows in front. Bright blue skies, herds of cattle walking, the sea calling, fishing trawlers leaving their destinations. Everything is rhythmic here. The main occupation of the islanders is fishing and drying fish. Sonadia is the main dry goods manufacturing center of the country. Not only that, this island has been selected to build the deep seaport of Bangladesh.
Now is the time of low tide. That canal of the night can now be crossed on foot. Wide sand, the clear water of the sea was calling! The blue of the sky was blending into the sea. I was moving forward like a hypnotist. Tehjib then got a local baby girl as a playmate. I asked and found out that the girl’s name was Jhuma. Tehjib said, ‘Mother, can Jhuma Apu and I build a sand palace?’ I smiled and shook my head. Ah! Sand palace! People build and break it in their minds!
There were thousands of red crabs on the seashore. That was seen from a distance; it seems that someone has designed it with a red color. As they get closer, the crabs quickly hide in the hole. One or two of them look out of the hole out of curiosity. When they go a little farther, they come out of the hole. It looked pretty much like a game of hide and seek with crabs. The boys wanted to play football. But the ball was not brought. So what! the beach was so beautiful that you could spend a lazy time all day sitting quietly.
Jhuma said that green sea turtles come to lay eggs on this shore. It looked like a tent. Nets surround it. Said, there are eggs here. When the turtles’ hatch, they are released back into the sea. I understood; it’s a turtle breeding center. There seems to be a lot on this small island.
It was time for us to return. The tent was folded. We cooked and ate ourselves at night. Alamgir bhai had said earlier that hilsa fish would be cooked at his house for us in the morning. After bathing in the sea, there was sand all over the body. One by one, we all went to the house and washed in the tube well water. Then I sat down to eat. Rice, mashed potatoes, pulses, and hilsa fish. Bhabi’s cooking is very good. I ate comfortably.
I said goodbye and left. By the time I got out, the tide was flowing. I will have to wait a long time for the wave. It was decided that I would walk along the eastern shore of the island to Ghatibhanga in Maheshkhali. I had to walk along the hilly isle of agricultural land. We rested and walked slowly. It took a couple of hours to reach Ghatibhanga. I left Sonadia, the island of gold has taken place very close to its heart.
The islands draw me in too, maybe because it has similarities with the human mind! Like the islands, we humans are very isolated nowadays!
